Climb before ten
The climb to Terra Murata is steep and shadeless. Done at nine it is a ten-minute walk; done at one it is another thing altogether.
Itinerario
The island measures 3.7 km² and you cross it on foot in forty minutes. It all fits into one day, if you go up first and down later.
One day in Procida is enough, and that is something you cannot say of Ischia or Capri. The island is 3.7 km², you can cross the whole of it on foot in about forty minutes, and the two places people come for — Terra Murata and Corricella — sit one above the other, ten minutes uphill and ten minutes downhill from the harbour.
The order of this itinerary is not accidental. You go up early, while the sun is not yet beating on the shadeless climb; you come down to Corricella for lunch, while the tables on the water are still free; and you keep the sea for the afternoon, which is the only time it makes sense to take on the stairway down to the Chiaia. Anyone doing it the other way round ends up climbing back to Terra Murata at two in the afternoon, and regrets it.
All on foot, with the C2 bus as an alternative to the climb
With half a day the choice is blunt: either the villages or the sea. Not both. If you choose the villages, climb to Terra Murata, go into the abbey, come down to Corricella and eat on the quay: that is three hours well spent and you see the things the island is famous for. If you choose the sea, take the L2 to Chiaiolella, which has direct road access and needs no stairways.
If your day starts from Naples and not from a bed on the island, the timings and the costs are in Procida from Naples in a day, where we also compare doing it yourself with the organised package.
Palazzo d’Avalos. It is the strongest visit on the island — the former Bourbon prison, in use from 1830 to 1988 — but it needs a booking two days ahead, lasts about an hour and costs 13.00 EUR, and its hours differ between sources. In a single day it is a risk: put it in the second day.
Vivara. Guided visits only, online booking compulsory, a maximum of 25 people per slot, closed on Monday, walking boots. The visit lasts two and a half hours on average. It does not fit into a day that already has the two villages.
Chiaiolella and Ciraccio. They are the better beaches for a day by the sea, but they are on the other side of the island. In a single day they cost you the time the villages need. Casale Vascello, on the other hand, you come across on the way down from the ridge and it is a detour of a few minutes: remember that it is a lived-in courtyard, not a monument.
The format the island carries best: one day for the upper villages, one for the former prison and the sea, with the evening left to the people who sleep here.
Two nights, three full half-days and no rushing: the format Procida seems made for, above all in May, June and September.
The trip from Naples with the real numbers: 25.40 EUR of ferry there and back, the full itinerary, and an honest comparison with the organised package from 85 EUR.
Reporter notebook
The climb to Terra Murata is steep and shadeless. Done at nine it is a ten-minute walk; done at one it is another thing altogether.
At Corricella the restaurants have their tables on the water and in high season they are full. Ring on the morning itself, as soon as you land.
Closed shoes for the stairways, water, a hat. Nothing on wheels reaches Corricella and a suitcase on those steps is a real problem.

A two-hour circuit of the island, with several swim stops and snorkelling gear on board. Underwater photo and video is included in the price.
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Small groups, eight people at most

Return ferry tickets from Naples and a three-course lunch included, with the rest of the day free on the island. Convenient if you would rather not deal with the timetables.
Skip the line
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Yes. The island measures 3.7 km² and you cross it on foot in about forty minutes: in one day you see the two villages, the abbey and a beach. It is the only one of the three islands in the bay you can say that of.
From Marina Grande, which is the harbour and the centre of the town at the same time. From there you climb to Terra Murata in about ten minutes and come down to Corricella in another ten. The bus terminus is next to the church of Santa Maria della Pietà.
The ferry from Naples costs 12.70 EUR each way on the boat and 17.40 on the hydrofoil, from Pozzuoli 9.50 EUR. The abbey is free and the buses cost 1.20 EUR a ticket. The biggest item of the day remains lunch.
The table at Corricella in high season, and the boat tour if you want to do it. Palazzo d’Avalos and Vivara, by contrast, need bookings in advance and take time a single day cannot carry.
The villages, if it is your first time: Terra Murata and Corricella are why the island is known. Keep the sea for the afternoon, with the Chiaia if you accept about a hundred and eighty steps, or Chiaiolella if you would rather have road access.
Further reading